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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.